Zhènnánguān
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This photo taken from the Vietnamese side of the pass. In centuries past, on each side of the boder of the 鎮南關 Zhènnánguān, South Holding Frontier Pass was a formal ritual terrace. On the north side of the border it was named 照德臺 Zhàodétái Radiating Virtue Terrace, and on the south side 仰德臺 Yǎngdétái Revering Virtue Terrace, in conformance to the supremacy of China. No traces of these terraces remain. 鎮南關 Zhènnánguān translates to South Holding Frontier Post, or South Pressing Pass. This name was the old Chinese name for the pass. Its purpose, in the eyes of the Chinese, for 2000 years, was to press down the barbarian south. Now its name has been changed to the politically correct Friendship Pass. First built in the Han Dynasty during General Ma Yuan's pacification campaign in the years 40-43 BC. (Over the centuries it has had other names; 雞陵關 Jilingguan, 雍雞關 Yongjiguan, 界首關 Jieshouguan, 大南關 Dananguan, 鎮夷關 Zhenyiguan, and 建國後改睦南關 Jianguo Gaimunnanguan. During the Ming Dynasty a Vietnamese envoy Le Quy Don wrote an essay commemorating the rebuilding of the Zhennanguan by a Chinese official, (Record of the Renovation of the Great South Holding Pass” (重修鎮南大關記, Trung tu Tram Nam dai quan ky/Chongxiu Zhennan daguan ji) 周禮掌固掌修城郭溝池樹渠之固，凡守者受法焉。又有司險掌九州之圖，以周知山林川澤之阻，而達其道路。設國之五溝五涂，而樹之材，以為阻固，皆有守禦。蓋設險之道，若是其重也。廣西越在南服，重山密菁，猺獞叢雜，所在險阻，而鎮南一關。南臨交阯，號為要地，馬新習銅柱在焉。其地獨平矌，無高山深林為之險阻，所恃者關而已。國家威德廣大，率土悉臣，四裔款塞，內外一體，安南尤恭順，於是關久不修，日就傾圮。貢使歲款關，往來是路，雖設險非聖世所急，然亦所以肅瞻視而重邊阻也。且恐內地細民，潛出外境，擾人藩服，亦非我國家所以懷遠人之心，則宜修亟矣。於是文武大吏蒞斯土者，料木石之宜，以從事於斯役。今廣西按察使甘君，時方守太平，兼攝南寧事。南寧有檳榔小稅，額課外得羨銀千八百兩，慨然曰關故太平地，守窶故不獲修，今既有此羨銀，願獨當之，列請咸報可，遂鳩工於雍正三年春二月，至冬竣事。有仡其墉，有翼其樓，斥候營汛，既齊既敕，南望銅柱兩高並峙，洵南天之偉觀也。國家之事，患無寔心任之耳。無其心，以眾人共謀一事而不足。有其心，雖一人獨任而有餘。甘君賢矣哉。甘君諱汝來洒，江西之奉新人也。由進士起家，所至有兼濘聲。以吏部主事來守太平，未幾遷左江道副使，歷今職並聖天子特簡，其將來依用固未可量云。今方理裝北行，甘君來請記，遂質言其寔，嘉甘君以勸來者，庶無廢斯績也。時同事斯工，與斯謀者，兩廣總督，孔諱毓洵，廣西提督韓諱良輔，左江總鎮，梁諱永禧，義得並書。 According to the Rites of Zhou, Keepers of Security were in charge of repairing citadels, city walls, moats and waterways, as well as planting trees along ditches to firm them up, while those who garrisoned these points did so in accordance with the law. Then there was the Director of Defense Works who examined a map of the Nine Regions to learn where the points of obstruction were among the mountains, forests, rivers and swamps, and then cleared these obstructions by opening up routes. Within the Kingdom he established the five canals and five roads, and lined them with trees to firm them up. All of these routes had people defending them. The principle of establishing defenses at strategic locations was taken this seriously. Guangxi and [the land of] Viet are in the Southern Domain. Densely packed with mountains, it has Yao and Tong [i.e. minority] peoples living scattered about the area. It is a strategic region, yet only has one pass—the South Holding Pass. Bordered on the south by Giao Chi/Jiaozhi, it is known as a strategic point. It is where Ma Xinxi’s [i.e. Ma Vien’s/Ma Yuan’s] bronze pillars were. The land is flat and open. There are no high mountains or deep forests that can serve as protective obstacles. All that this area can rely upon is this one pass. The Kingdom’s moral sway is enormous. [The people of] all lands are [the Emperor’s] servants. The various peoples from the four directions all knock at the gates of border passes, so that the inner and outer constitute a single entity. The Calm South is particularly obedient. Therefore, the pass went for a long time without being repaired, and became more dilapidated with each passing day. Tribute envoys knock at this gate and cross this route each year. Although strengthening defenses is not an urgent matter for a sagely era, it is still important that the pass look majestic and that the border be secure. What is more, it was feared that commoners from the Inner Land might surreptitiously cross the border and harass people in the vassal domain. This, of course, is not Our Kingdom’s intent in embracing men from afar. Therefore, it was imperative to repair the pass. Civilian and military officials came and began preparing for the construction project. The current Surveillance Commissioner of Guangxi, the Honorable Gan, was at that time Prefect of Taiping prefecture, and concurrently, in charge of affairs in Nanning prefecture as well. He noted that in Nanning there was a tax on betel nut, to the sum of 1,800 taels of silver, which was levied in addition to the standard taxes. He generously stated that “Since the pass is on land which is in the jurisdiction of Taiping prefecture, and since the pass is in disrepair, I am willing to allocate this extra money for the purpose of repairing the pass.” He then formally requested and received permission to do so. Following this he assembled workers who began the project in the second lunar month of the third year of the Yongzheng reign [1725], and finished the following winter. Now with its fortified wall standing tall, its towers capped with winged roofs, and its sentry box and barracks both orderly and solemn, when one looks to the south it is like the two bronze pillars standing tall and firm. It is truly the greatest sight under the southern skies. In regard to the affairs of the Kingdom, one only worries that those entrusted with carrying out tasks do not have a sincere heart. If one does not have a sincere heart then even should they work together with others, they still cannot complete a task. A person with a sincere heart though, even should he work alone, he can still complete any task with ease. The Honorable Gan is truly a wise and virtuous man! The Honorable Gan’s name is Rulaisa. He is from Fengxin county in Jiangxi province. He gained prominence by becoming a presented scholar. Wherever he has served he has gained a repAs I was preparing to journey to the North, the Honorable Gan visited me and requested that I write a record [of the renovation of the pass]. I have therefore recounted these events and praised the Honorable Gan in order to urge those in the future to not forsake these accomplishments. Gan has a reputation for being able and incorruptible. As a secretary of the Ministry of Personnel he was appointed Prefect of Taiping prefecture. Not long later he was promoted to Vice Commissioner of Zuojiang circuit. All of his promotions, up to the present, have been executed by the Sagely Son of Heaven himself. One can therefore only guess at the great tasks with which he will be entrusted in the future. It is also appropriate that I also mention the other officials who contributed to this project – the Governor-general of the Two Guangs [i.e. Guangdong and Guangxi], Kong Yuxun, the Provincial Military Commander of Guangxi, Han Liangfu, and the Regional Commander of Zuojiang, Liang Yongxi. (Translation by Liam Kelley from his book The Bronze Pillars) |