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'不知廬山真面目' ' No way to know Lushan's true face!' 五老峰 Wulaofeng, a grouping of five peaks on the SE edge of Lushan, overlooking Poyanghu, must be the most famous of Lushan's peaks. In the past most travelers viewed it from Poyanghu as they traveled north and south by boat. On clear days, which are rare on Lushan, Wulaofeng could also be seen from Hukou at the entrance of Poyanghu into the Changjiang. For this traveler is has been the most difficult set of peaks to visit and see. Now in my fifth visit to Lushan I have finally climbed it, but the weather today on February 7, 2005 has been typically Lushanian; alternating light mist, heavy rain, light rain, heavy clouds like London fog, hail, thunder and lightening. Only for a moment did the 4th Wulaofeng jut out of the mist for a second before being swallowed up again. Twice I have traveled by diesel powered sampan south to north on Poyanghu but have not seen it. Truly a set of furtive hermit peaks! Maybe tomorrow...... February 9, 2005, New Year's Day. Again I climbed Wulaofeng, without a single tantalizing glimpse of the mountain. Just heavy mist and cold rain. Tonight the rain on the streets of Kuling has turned to ice and wind dislodges frozen drops of rain from tree branches and they crackle and pop on the street like cold firecrackers. Perhaps it will be clear tomorrow, my last day on this trip, and I will finally see Wulaofeng!

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